The Mother of Punk,"Vivienne Westwood" Provided by Frieze
The Mother of Punk,"Vivienne Westwood" Provided by Frieze

 

Fondly deemed as “the mother of punk,” Vivienne Westwood, British fashion designer and the symbol of avant-garde, passed away at age 81 on December 29, 2022. Westwood’s brand Vivienne Westwood embodied her persona as a “punk activist,” with the brand’s designs representing rebellion against oppression. As a revolutionist in the designer world, some of the most outstanding pieces by Westwood include the following: an orb pendant with the ring of Saturn, a genderless ‘Bondage Suit,’ a corset printed with a ‘Daphnis and Cloe’ painting, blue leather “mock-crock” platform shoes, and a wedding dress designed using the drawings of school children, all of which visualized the looks of the freedom warrior and environmentalist.

Westwood’s openness to controversy is what set her brand Vivienne Westwood ahead of its time. As the economic turmoil of the 1970s came to an end, international couture turned towards ostentatious displays of wealth and luxury and radiated towards conservatism that focused on one-size tailoring. Westwood and her brand, closely associated with punk rock and its anti-establishment ideology, was a “rare surviving rebel,” as defined by The Guardian. Not only is the brand influential and symbolic, but it is also highly personal. Westwood’s private life is inextricably intertwined with her art which can be seen in the crafts of Vivienne Westwood. The kick-start of Westwood’s career and her punk craze designs came with her first collaboration with then ex-lover Malcolm McLaren, with the duo opening a small boutique called “Let It Rock” at 430 King’s Road, selling biker jackets and T-shirts.

Westwood and McLaren's shop, "SEX" Provided by Cultura Colectiva
Westwood and McLaren's shop, "SEX" Provided by Cultura Colectiva

 

Vivienne Westwood’s journey with “punk,” a powerful subculture for the marginalized, first started in the 70’s. In 1974, Westwood and McLaren’s shop got revamped as “SEX” to fit the zeitgeist of the decade. The brash branding of the shop’s new logo in bold pink capital letters drew much attention from people walking the streets of London, England. The shop was the catalyst to the couple’s bond and proper entry into punk culture. From then, the effects of punk in the couple’s life continued.

In the mid 70s, rock music started to lose its vitality and was later jolted out of the doldrums by the nihilistic and rebellious nature of punk music. When McLaren went to New York to promote his and Westwood’s boutique shop SEX, he got hooked on punk and decided to create his own band called “The Sex Pistols,” a group which would become a sensational representative for its usage of Westwood’s designs. The band’s style was all about the anti-traditional nature of punk: ripped clothes, safety pins, T-shirts embodied with naked figures, and “bondage pants.” The style of the Sex Pistols displayed Westwood’s outlook on punk, visually expressing the heretic lifestyle and eloquence of the anarchical.

As a brand, Vivienne Westwood identifies itself as an activist in the fashion industry. Westwood herself played a huge role in raising awareness of social issues such as climate change, nuclear disarmament and human rights through the designs and advertisements of the brand. As a pro-environment establishment, the brand focuses on its priority of promoting becoming “green” in the industry. However, the brand was also at the center of the industry that most promotes consumerism and environmental damage, showing an inherent contradiction.

Good sides cannot be outweighed when it comes to Vivienne Westwood. The brand carries Westwood's vision, one that was a juxtaposition for bringing traditional elements and her own anarchic imagery to life. Her legacy is one to be admired, and she is regarded as one of the finest modern designers. Vivienne Westwood, her brand and memorial, remains a valuable role model for aspiring artists, with an unapologetic attitude that should always be cherished.

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