“Everything old is new again,” declared the seventeenth century author Jonathan Swift, and this proclamation is still extremely relevant in the 21st century, where nostalgia has become a popular factor for fashion brands to incorporate into their products. Ranging from the 2000s - also referred to as Y2K - style velour tracksuits and crop tops to wide leg pants and chokers, it is inevitable that past fashion trends are continuously finding ways to make a comeback. As ephemeral as fads may be, these nostalgic trends are the current mainstream look among Generation Z (Gen Z).
Why the Sudden Reminiscence?
The coronavirus disease (COVID-19) pandemic has instigated a yearning for the good old days amongst younger generations, especially millennials and Gen Z. This tendency to recollect has been acknowledged and manifested in the image of many brands, making nostalgia a common ground for companies to connect with consumers. Therefore, fashion brands have been quick to respond to the need for closer emotional ties between consumers and products.
In his interview with Who What Wear, James Abraham, the owner of a nostalgia-themed Instagram account “Nineties Anxiety” with over two million followers noted, “Whether it is fashion publications or celebrities posting throwback images, nostalgic content comprises a big portion of what resonates with viewers these days.” Social media has proven how marketable nostalgia can be, as seen by TikTok videos with the hashtag nostalgia having accumulated over 42.1 billion views. The right nostalgic touchpoints can go viral quickly as they allow one to live vicariously through reminiscence. The trend has also been noticeable on YouTube where fashion content creators featuring keywords such as “’90s aesthetics” and thrift hauls in their videos are garnering likes.
Appeals of Nostalgia
Particularly in fashion marketing, nostalgia plays a vital role. In a resource article by Walden, Daryl Travis, founder of the brand consultancy Brandtrust emphasized, “We are irrationally patterned to our brand preferences... driven by feelings, not facts.” Coined emotional marketing, the tactic where companies capitalize on consumers’ general sentiments towards different items is deemed effective, deliberately tapping into emotion to engage loyal customers and heightening brand awareness.
Nostalgia marketing, in which companies exploit the preference that customers have for nostalgia, can be seen as an augmentation of emotional marketing. Luxury brands have been keen on utilizing this method, with brands like Oliver Goldsmith – the maker of Audrey Hepburn’s iconic sunglasses in Breakfast at Tiffany’s – launching an exact replica of the accessory in commemoration of the film’s 50th anniversary. Fans who wanted to save a piece of the beloved film did not hesitate on this opportunity, ultimately providing the brand with a boost in sales.
As brands begin to uncover the merits of catering to their customers’ vintage-loving tastes, the trend to re-release products has grown to be progressively sought-after in recent years. Polo Ralph Lauren is another prime example that exhibits the power of nostalgia. When the label first announced that their ’90s classic Snow Beach collection was being re-released in 2018, many had lined up for hours to acquire the limited editions. Pieces from the collection were resold in consignment stores for over several hundred percent markups for those who had not managed to get it for themselves then. Hence, nostalgia, having proved its potential in stimulating an emotional connection on behalf of consumers, ultimately enhances the influence a company has over them.
According to the global management consulting firm McKinsey & Company in their 2018 report, “‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies”, Gen Z consumers have gravitated towards brands that seem to promote similar values. One example is Levi’s, which is a denim brand founded in 1853 and still dominating the market after over a century. They have been constantly investing in material and technological innovations to improve the quality of the garments while keeping the planet in mind. Nostalgia for past decades has also contributed to keeping the brand alive. Through offering a variety of vintage collections such as the Folk City collection, they also encourage re-wear through its Tailor Shop and its Authorized Vintage range.
As reported by Fashion Journal, Levi’s chief marketing officer Karen Riley-Grant explained how it was all possible. “By inviting our customers to buy secondhand or vintage, we are not only helping keep garments out of landfills,” she mentioned. “We are also inviting our fans to invest in pieces that they will treasure for longer.” These efforts inform consumers of Levi’s ‘Buy Better, Wear Longer’ campaign message. The brand knows that despite millennials’ and Gen Z’s preference to dress in styles from the past, they are advocates for climate change and sustainability. Therefore, the attempt to seem authentic and relatable as a brand while selling nostalgia enhances a sense of trust amongst customers for that particular brand.
Pros and Cons of Nostalgia Marketing Tactics
Considering the significance of both emotional attachment and brand authenticity in fashion marketing, there have been cases of brands successfully utilizing nostalgia to heighten their brand appeal. A prominent example of this was Coach’s incorporation of a vintage drive-in cinema for i ts runway in 2021. Encompassing extensive multisensory elements to engage with the audience further, this evoked an authentic, transparent nostalgic experience for both millennials and Gen Z.
However, excessive dependence on nostalgia has had an adverse effect on some companies, being criticized as a marketing shortcut. Such examples can be observed by the Doraemon-infested Gucci T-shirts and Loewe’s collaboration with Studio Ghibli last year. Despite having garnered the attention of fan bases, some customers felt the approach was too shallow. According to Vogue, Bryant Lee, brand consultant and marketing manager at the consulting agency Seiya Nakamura, argued that even though these films and animations evoke a pleasant remembrance of the past, Loewe’s collaboration was a miss as they merely produced Totoro merchandise simply adorned with a Loewe logo and a luxurious price tag.
In spite of the backlash selling nostalgia has garnered, nostalgia marketing has still undoubtedly left its mark in the fashion industry. Evoking an emotional response from customers, nostalgia marketing has resulted in many successful product launches which further demonstrates nostalgia’s value as a powerful marketing tool. Yet in order to provide customers with a more satisfactory experience, brands should adopt innovative methods and campaigns to make use of nostalgia in a more appealing fashion.